Grand Manan is an island in the Bay of Fundy, within Charlotte County, New Brunswick, Canada. It is 15km from the American town of Lubec, Maine and 32km from the Canadian town of Blacks Harbour, New Brunswick.
Grand Manan is also the name for the village that incorporates the main island and several nearby smaller islands. White Head Island and Machias Seal Island are within Grand Manan Parish but are not part of the village.
In 1693, the island was granted to Paul D'Ailleboust, Sieur de Périgny as part of Champlain's "New France". D'Ailleboust did not take possession of it, and it reverted to the French Crown, in whose possession it remained until 1713, when it was traded to the British in the Treaty of Utrecht.
In 1784, Moses Gerrish gathered a group of settlers on an area of Grand Manan he called Ross Island, in honour of settler Thomas Ross, and formed the first permanent settlement. During the American Revolution, just off the island there were many naval battles between American privateers and British shipping.
Because of the Treaty of Paris (1783), the U.S. considered Grand Manan to be its possession due to the island's proximity to Maine. Britain obtained title in Jay's Treaty of 1794, while surrendering its sovereignty claims over Eastport on Moose, Frederick and Dudley islands in nearby Cobscook Bay.
From 1812 to 1814, the Bay of Fundy was infested with privateers who raided and plundered villages. The ownership of islands in Passamaquoddy Bay was not settled until 1817, when the United States gave up its claim to Grand Manan and the surrounding islands. In 1814, the schooner George was purchased at prize-auction and intentionally loaded with specifically ordered British goods at Saint John so John Tappen could fraudulently have captains William Sebor and Henry Dekoven stage a fraudulent capture of the George by his own privateer ship Fly
/ref>Martin, E.J.; (2021) Maine’s Mode of Privateering: A Tale of Fraud and Collusion in the Northeast Borderlands, 1812–1815. London Journal of Canadian Studies , 28 (1) pp. 33-52. 10.14324/111.444.ljcs.2013v28.004
In 1831 the island's first lighthouse, Gannet Rock Lighthouse, was built on a rocky islet south of Grand Manan, to guide shipping en route to Saint John.
This period was also marked by a number of shipwrecks off the island's rocky, cliff-lined coast. In 1857, the Lord Ashburton, was driven into the cliffs at the northern end of the island by hurricane-force winds to great loss of life. Another wreck was the Nova Scotian barque Walton, which was bound for Saint John, New Brunswick, from Wales when it wrecked on the White Ledge off Grand Manan on September 14, 1878.
By 1851, the island population numbered almost 1,200 permanent inhabitants, most working in fishing. Two years earlier, Moses Henry Perley studied the fisheries and noted "the people of Grand Manan enjoy perfect free trade. No duties whatever are paid by the inhabitants of Grand Manan, in fact there is no person there authorized to receive duties. The inhabitants take their fish to Eastport or Lubec, and there sell them at low prices takin in return such articles as they need for home consumption...as there is a perfectly good understanding with the fishermen of Maine.".Wentworth, Ernest & Richard Wilbur, "Silver Harvest", 1986
In 1874, were introduced to the island "unaccountably", which drove gull and tern populations away.
By 1884, Grand Manan became the largest supplier of smoked herring in the world. By 1920, it produced one million boxes—or twenty thousand tons—of smoked herring.
Southwestern New Brunswick smugglers in the late 18th century were "the overwhelming majority of the local political machinery, including the judiciary" - and a 1796 seizure found contraband tied to the "leading figures and magistrates" of Campobello, Grand Manan and Indian Island. In 1898, it was noted that the island'
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In the late Victorian era, tourists began visiting the island, including author Willa Cather and painters Alfred Thompson Bricher and John James Audubon. Spencer Fullerton Baird carried out a 19th century archaeological study of the island.Shaw, Christopher, "A GIS Approach to Ancestral Wabanaki Canoe Routes and Travel Times", 2016
In 1967, the Grand Manan Museum was opened, with exhibits including the large lens from the Gannett Rock Lighthouse and taxidermied bird specimens from Allan Moses.
In 2005, approximately fifty Islanders engaged in vigilante justice in removing a drug dealer from the island as five, "whom many considered heroes", were criminally charged. NDP candidate Andrew Graham noted "I don't know what it's like to see what crack cocaine is doing to your children. It was a pressure cooker and they reached their limit."The Quoddy Tides Sep 8, 2006, "Candidates vie for Support from Voters in Charlotte County" Investing in the island in the aftermath of the violence which had drawn international headlines, the government built a youth centre and outdoor skating rink.
Christians' Temple was built in Woodward's Cove by the Baptist minister Mr. Cook, but passed into ownership of Joseph Lakeman who was converted to the Disciples of Christ denomination by the visiting Elder George Garraty, but was later converted to a Latter Day Saints temple after Lakeman declared himself a Mormon. A missionary had been preaching "alongside a Mormon elder" on Grand Manan circa 1870., pg274, etc It later burned down, and was not rebuilt.Elaine Ingalls Hogg, Historic Grand Manan: Images of Our Past (Halifax, Nova Scotia: Nimbus Publishing Limited, 2007), 19.
Island community norms "officially prohibited drinking". However, before a provincial liquor store opened in 1972 islanders could legally order liquor and have it delivered on the ferry, and alcohol smuggling was common. In 1975, an outsider from Toronto was disparaged on the island for purchasing the Marathon Hotel and applying for a liquor license angering religious leaders who had blocked liquor licenses on the island five times previously, with local MLA James Tucker noting "It's an atrocity...I'm only taking the side of 95% of the island opposition". A year later, the Marathon's license was revoked - although reinstated in 1982 on condition it serve only hotel patrons and not general island population. During these years, it was also uncommon to find retailers willing to sell cigarettes or cosmetic make-up. In 1995, an outsider purchased a video rental store which transformed into a pizza parlour and then into a pool hall within two years - and received a liquor license, again angering local islanders. By the time of the third liquor license, for a restaurant in North Head, in 2003 - there was no community outrage and alcohol had become normalised. However the 2004 death of three youths from a roadside crash led to concern and intervention for a perceived "escalating alcohol and drug problem"
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With the arrival of Baptist revivalists, Anglicanism faltered and "religion became almost their only entertainment - and remains so."Scherman, Katharine. "Two Islands: Grand Manan and Sanibel", 1971. Chapter 3 and elsewhere. In the 19th century, bursts of religious fervour would see dancing forbidden and amusements frowned upon on Grand Manan for a time, although evangelical missionary zeal was uncommon. Fishermen adhered to a "strict "no-Sunday" rule" which prohibited checking lobster traps or harvesting herring from weirs on Sundays. This community norm persisted until at least 2000 in the community of Seal Cove.
As of 2008 Grand Manan and neighbouring White Head Island were served by fifteen churches. Of these, three were Wesleyan Church and three Baptists. In 2021 the three Wesleyan churches merged into the Lighthouse Church. There are also two Anglican churches dating back to Loyalist days,GRAND MANAN-AN ISLAND GEM OF
Grand Manan is long and has a maximum width of with an area of . The Western side of the main island and the smaller islands form numerous passages, coves, and rocky reefs. The vast majority of Grand Manan residents live on the eastern side of the island. Due to limited access, cliffs and high winds, the western side of the island is not residentially developed.
Eastern shore harbours were created by the erosion of complex fault and fold structures in metamorphosed sedimentary and volcanic rock formations. A major north–south fault at Red Point divides these eastern rocks from the western basalts. The metamorphic formations are organized into groups called Castalia, Ingalls Head, and Grand Manan.
There are also metamorphosed plutonic masses such as Stanley Brook Granite, Rockweed Pond Gabbro, and Kent Island Granite. These rocks have been dated between 539 and 618 million years old ref. and are now considered to correlate with the New River and Mascarene of southern New Brunswick. Although originally they were igneous rock and sedimentary rocks such as basalt, sandstone, and shale, the eastern formations have been metamorphosed into greenschist, phyllite, argillite, schist, quartzite, and other foliated types. In addition, many folds and faults have bent and broken the formations in rather tortured-looking outcrops. One such fault can be seen at the north end of Pettes Cove, where it separates metabasalt of Swallowtail Head from schist of North Head.
The western two-thirds of the island shows thick lava flows of Late Triassic age, part of a flood basalt that underlies most of the Bay of Fundy. The Fundy basalts are themselves a small portion of the Central Atlantic Magmatic Province which was formed in a volcanic event preceding the breakup of the supercontinent Pangaea in the Early Jurassic. Many minerals have filled the cracks and bubbles left by gases boiling out of the cooling lavas. They include zeolite minerals such as chabazite, mesolite, stilbite, and heulandite, plus attractive quartz-related amethyst, agate, jasper, and many others. Good collecting areas include Seven Days Work, Indian Beach, and Bradford Cove. A few meters of siltstone are exposed under the basalt along the western shoreline, which by analogy with the Blomidon Formation in Nova Scotia must include the Triassic–Jurassic boundary.
Since 2000, the average annual precipitation has been 859.8 mm with August being the driest month (35 mm) and October (112 mm) the wettest.
The highest temperature ever recorded on Grand Manan was on 12 August 2025. The coldest temperature ever recorded was on 10 January 1890.
Tourism is growing significantly, supported by whale and bird watching, camping and kayaking. Approximately 54% of the island is owned by seasonal or non-residents. New York architect Michael Zimmer established the Sardine Museum and Herring Hall of Fame.Canadian Geographic 2007 -Page 58 "These weathered structures still line Seal Cove's picturesque harbour, and one contains the Sardine Museum and Herring Hall of Fame, an offbeat tourist attraction established by a wealthy New Yorker to exhibit obsolete fishing equipment as..."
There are freshwater ponds, lakes and beaches that are prime locations for sunbathing, beachcombing, and picnics. Other interesting finds on Grand Manan are magnetic sand, and "Hole-In-The Wall" located in Whale Cove.
The Grand Manan Hospital, operated by Horizon Health Network, provides family medicine, emergency medicine and palliative care. The hospital also has an eight-bed inpatient unit. There are onsite diabetes clinics, physiotherapy as well as telemedicine. Diagnostics include x-ray, EKG, and blood and specimen collecting.
The island is served by the Grand Manan Airport.
New Brunswick Route 776 is the main road on Grand Manan, running on a north–south alignment along the island's eastern coast.
In March 1976, a vote of residents on Grand Manan showed 100% agreed to withhold payment of provincial property taxes until a second ferry was put in service."Island Demands Second Ferry", Telegraph-Journal, March 29 1976Airphoto Analysis Associates Consultants, "Fundy Isles Region Tourism Industry Development Plan", federal Department of Regional Economic Expansion, NB Department of Tourism, 1976
The 90-minute ferry from Blacks Harbour to Grand Manan is operated by Coastal Transport Limited, and there also exists a 30-minute ferry serving the 200 residents of White Head Island from Ingalls Head.
/ref> three Baptist, and a small Catholic church. As of 2021, 1% of Grand Manan identified as following a religion other than Christianity.
Geography and Geology
Climate
Economy
Demographics
Infrastructure
See also
Notes
Further reading
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